A Weekly Guide to Local Food News
Fri, Sep 5

SPOTLIGHT

Chef Donna Meadows, formerly of The Little House, now runs Moxie Steak House in Alameda. (Photo by Henry Rubin)

ON THE FRONT BURNER

When I was growing up, steakhouses were only frequented by adults. To escape from the kids, a parents’ night out on the town featured filet mignon, martinis, cigarettes and, it was implied, other nebulous indulgences. Moxie Steak House bears no relation to those poorly lit, smoke-filled and burgundy-walled restaurants. Moxie’s art deco wallpaper pattern has a dark background but summons up the spirit of Laura Ashley more than it does a den of iniquity. That’s all due to chef Donna Meadows. She ran The Little House for a decade and a half before it closed in 2022. Meadows has partnered with her former landlord, Christopher Seiwald, to cook steaks, of course, but also lamb chops, fish and so many side dishes (you can’t go wrong with the chive fritters or mashed potatoes). For Alamedans and other island visitors who’ve missed her Little House donuts, the chef has revived the “donut of the day” program on the weekends.

OPENINGS

Henry Spivey opened his Alta Vina wine bar in Jack London Square. (Photo by J.S. Edalatpour)

TO CHABLIS OR NOT TO CHABLIS  

Right before that hearty dinner at Moxie, I stopped by Henry Spivey’s new wine bar in Jack London Square. Alta Vina is located right next door to the Oakland Grill, which, much to my surprise, is still operating 7 days a week. Spivey doesn’t compare himself to Ted Danson but he does liken his bar to the one on Cheers. Open since June, he’s already got regulars who come in to buy bottles and try “splashes” from his 100% Californian wine list. As a proprietor and supporter of local vintners, Spivey is an affable and knowledgeable presence behind the bar. Some of his customers think he should change the name to Henry’s, an unanticipated consequence of serving and recommending wines he believes in with a side dash of brio.

THIS WEEK’S VISITS

Rosie’s Rich Sigona meticulously assembled all of the ingredients into my ‘2/3 Turkey Club.’ (Photo by Alice Sigona)

NEVER STOP POPPING UP

Thanks to a rare holiday weekend, I took a leisurely stroll down Solano Avenue a couple of weeks before the Solano Avenue Stroll (Sept. 14). I stopped by Payn’s Stationery and Pegasus Books before ordering a sandwich at Rosie’s, a new food pop-up. Rich and April Sigona had set up a table and a mise en place station right outside Of All Places’ front window. While the sun started to broil the sidewalk, Rich meticulously assembled all of the ingredients into my “2/3 Turkey Club.” I interviewed the couple on Sunday and found out that April baked the chocolate chip cookies and the fig and lemon thyme pop tart on display. What got them started and what kind of bread do they use? Find out in next week’s What the Fork column. Rosie’s pops up next at Flowerland on Sunday, Sept. 7.

After waiting in line for 30 minutes at Yume Mori, we were rewarded with an iced matcha and a hot matcha. (Photo by J.S. Edalatpour)

TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL

Matcha tea is an acquired taste for the discerning palate. I haven’t acquired it yet. But two new matcha cafes in Berkeley have already attracted many followers and, therefore, lines out the door. This year’s returning class of students made up the majority of those lines this weekend. A couple of weeks ago I parked in front of the Aquatic, one of the new multiuse buildings on Shattuck. Look for Forest Tea Bar’s logo, clandestinely posted on a ground floor window. The cafe is compact and jam-packed, inside and out. The wait times for a cup of tea can run up to 50 minutes. On that first foray, I demurred and returned to my car. On Saturday, I brought a matcha-loving friend with me to try Yume Mori, another cafe that serves drinks and crepes. Outside, you could have mistaken the line for a Beyoncé or Taylor Swift concert. The midday sun didn’t deter anyone but us. We decided to risk a different line down the street back at Forest instead. We were rewarded with shade and a solid half hour wait for one iced matcha and one hot matcha (much to someone’s chagrin, they had run out of ice cream). Am I now a convert? Let’s just say I’m encouraged to try Yume Mori once I get a bigger hat or the clouds get stronger.

MORE FOOD NEWS

EVENTS IN A NUTSHELL

Kinfolx, the Oakland cafe serving coffee, wine and culture, is hosting a marketplace on Monday, Sept. 15, from 6 to 8pm. The event promises local vendors, music and connection centered around Art & Adornment, Care & Wellness, Knowledge & Healing, and Creative offerings.

Esmeria Bakehouse is a small-batch Filipino bakery popping up at Of All Places on Saturday, Sept. 6. I would like to try their peach flan yema tart and the calamansi Thai basil danish!

Lake Chalet Seafood Bar & Grill in Oakland is holding an Oktoberfest Beer Festival on Sunday, Sept. 21 from 1 to 4pm. So, that’s an Oktoberfest in September. Who knew that was a thing?

—Jeffrey Edalatpour 🍴

About me: Eating food in the East Bay since 1991. Writing about it for EBX since 2020. 

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